How To Change A Profile – New Tech Machinery’s WAV™ 12-1F to 8-1F

New Tech Machinery’s WAV™ Machine has a number of different profiles suited for a variety of different jobs. Changing a profile is an important part of running a metal siding business. That’s why Nate Roston, Outside Service Manager, walks you through the process step-by-step.

Learn more about this changeover with this article:

Learn more about the WAV™ here:

8 Common Adjustments You Should Know For NTM’s WAV™ Wall Panel Machine:

In this video:

0:00 – Teaser

0:18 – Intro

0:27 – Safety first

1:07 – Tools you will need

1:32 – Set right entry guide

1:55 – Width adjustment

2:28 – Guide rods

2:42 – Set left entry guide

3:08 – Run material through the machine up to the shear

3:54 – Remove shear guard and dies

4:56 – Remove and move the shear blades

5:20 – Install 8-1F shear dies

6:22 – Run material through the dies and test cut

6:45 – Outro

Need help with your machine? Visit the NTM Service & Support Center


So you own a New Tech WAV panel machine. We’re gonna show you in this video how to switch it from the 12-1F panel to the 8-1F panel.

Hi, Nate Roston here with New Tech Machinery and in today’s video we’re gonna show you how to switch over from the 12-1F panel to the 8-1F panel.

Now as you can see that we have all the safety covers in place, and it’s always good that no matter what, when you’re using the machine, the covers are always in place, especially the shear cover. As you can see, we have the warning label here. So just to remind you never to reach through the shear, always work on front of the shear or in back of the shear. As you can see that we’ve disabled the machine by using the lock-out tag-out system so that the machine can inadvertently turned on and powered up. Make sure that you obey the laws of your local jurisdiction.

Now the machine has been safely powered off and locked out and tagged out, we’ll now begin to remove the safety covers. So in order to do the changeover, you’re gonna need a 7/32nd Allen wrench, a half inch socket for the shear, a 3/8ths wrench for the shear guard and a tape measure.

Now we’re gonna be following the steps you’ll find in the manual. See the link below and that’ll lead you right there. Now that we’ve safely powered down the machine and we’re locked out and tagged out, the first step would be for us to move the right entry guide shoe seven inches from its original position for the 16-4 panel. Okay, so we would have our right side of our entry guide shoe seven inches away from the original 16-4 position. And then we also want to ensure that all of our forming rollers, one through 14 are disengaged.

So the next step is gonna be the width adjustment. Since we’re going from the 12-1F to the 8-1F, we’re already four inches closer than the standard 16-4 panel, which is 22 and 3/16ths. Right now we’re at 18 and 3/16ths and we need to move it down to 14 and 3/16ths. So we’ll turn that counterclockwise until we reach our 14 and 3/16ths. Right there is good. Re-engage our handle. So since we’re going from the 12-1F to the 8-1F, we just wanna make sure that our long auxiliary guide rod is in place and that our short auxiliary guide rod is in place.

So I’ve cut a piece of material, that 13 and 5/16ths width coil about seven foot long, and I’m gonna use that to set the left entry guide shoe. So now we bring our material in. Our right entry guide is already set. We’re just gonna bring in the material, the left entry guide shoe into the edge of the material, make sure it goes through nice and smooth. Perfect. So once we got our sample piece cut, the seven footer, and the entry guide set, now we have to enable the machine so that we can run our test panel.

So this is where we need to be extra careful and make sure that we keep all of our body parts out of the moving parts of the machine, especially the shear. So now is where we would remove the lock-out tag-out mechanism. Now we’re gonna run a piece through the machine up to the shear. Just wanna make sure we go through each section slowly, one at a time. So now that we have our sample piece brought up to the shear, we’ll begin to set up the shear. Before we do that, we want to reinstall our lock-out tag-out just to be safe.

So now that we’ve ran a part up to the shear, we’re gonna remove the shear guard and cover, and then we will be working with the shear. So again, we wanna make sure that you’re working safely. So it’s always important to work on the front of the shear or the back of the shear, but never reach through the shear.

So now we’re working with the shear. We’ve reinstalled our lock-out tag-out system to prevent inadvertently cutting the machine on. We’ll remove one of the center blades, the 12-1F die, and then we’ll install the 8-1F die. So whenever we’re working with the shear, we wanna make sure that we’re working safely, so we’re always working either in front of the shear or behind the shear, but never through the shear.

So we’ll start by removing the outside shear die for the 12-1F. And notice that we’re always working on either side of the shear, never through the shear. Next step would be to remove one of the center blades. Then we’ll move the number one blade over one spot. Make sure those are snug but not overtighten them. Then we’ll start with the 8-1F shear die.

So I’m aligning this edge with the inside of the panel that we brought up to the shear so that you can kinda get close to where you need to be initially to reduce the amount of adjustments necessary. So what we need to do is we need to realign this die so that the hem of the male leg is actually right at this line. So we’ll have to move that in so to match that, and then we’ll bring everything together so that it lines up with the panel. So in order for us to move that, remember there’s a cam follower in between these two dies. So it all has to move together with the upper blade. So as I move that in, that’s how I get it lined up with the shear die. Then I’ll have to move these screws over to the next location.

So now that we’ve got our shear dies aligned, we can remove our lock-out tag-out and run a panel through and do a test cut. Forward. Cut looks good. Now we’ll run a sample piece.

Now there is your NTM WAV panel 8-1F. Please see our other videos on how to make adjustments to the panel if necessary. The WAV machine is back on the market. Please reach out to any of our sales staff for information.

Thank you for watching and we’ll see you in the next video.